The gh braille fonts are True Type fonts for use on computers that are helpful for the sighted trying to use, learn, proof read or understand braille and can be downloaded here.
Note that these are all math related "nemeth" fonts and not grade 1 or grade 2 braille fonts. As such the letters are all what you'd expect from grade 1 and 2 but the numbers and many symbols are "lowered" and will be "wrong" if you're expecting grades 1 or 2.
Alas there's very little in the way of documenation for either their installation or use. To install them on Windows unzip them, open thier location in Windows Explorer, right click on each font and select "install". During "installation" the fonts are copied somewhere into bowels of the system so your unzipped copies can be deleted if you like.
In use the the fonts need to be set to 24 points to be sized correctly. Then you just pick the font you need.
There are actually 5 "knds" of fonts in this set: proofing, plain braille, shadowed, annotated and shadowed plus annotation. Plain braille is just that, the dots and nothing else. Shadowed adds tiny "shadow" dots at dot positions that shouldn't be raised. Annotaiton adds the regular visual character below the cell. Shadowed plus annotated, of course, adds both. The proofing fonts seem to be just the visual characters without the braille made to take up the same space as a braille cell.
Of them, I find "gh SimBraille Nemeth One" to be the most useful. It's a shadowed and annotated font. I find that the visual characters help me check my tytping and the shadows help me "visualize" the dots and align the slate when I'm actually punching dots. Only the plain, unadorned braille fonts are suitable for use with "swell paper."
There are lots of kinds of slates out there from lots of sources. I'm particularly fond of the side hinged 4 by 28 cell version though I've been eyeing the side hinged 2 by 29 "clipboard" slate. I generally don't braille whole pages, though. I tend to use the shortest, widest slates I can get my hands on because I'm generally labeling various places on larger 12 by 18 inch paper. Often I lable maps and the like sideways or at angles. The side hinge lets me reach odd places on the paper and from either side.
The price is right, though this labeler has two huge shortcomings. First, though it has sighted markings, they're not where they can be seen. This is more or less correctable by writing the symbols in the right place with a fine tipped permanent marker. To do, picture.
The second flaw is that, as it has been for decades, the labels created are pretty iffy about what they'll stick to. And since the label tape comes coiled the tape tends to have a permanent bow in it, making it want to pull itself off of anything that it possibly can. In short labels sometimes don't stick at all. Other times they seem to stick just fine but then pop off minutes, days or months later. Sneaky little devils. This can sometimes be corrected by straightening the tape before you punch it. To do that, remove the tape form the spool and coil it backwards. Then pull it sharply around a corner top-side towards the corner "undoing" the curl. Repeat as need till it's straight. (To do, add more here. Maybe a photo) This can also sometimes be corrected by using double sided tape between the label and whatever you're sticking it to. Which sounds weird. But different glues stick to different things and sometimes the added adhesion makes a difference.